The Pioneer of Korean Menswear, An Archive of a Visionary Beyond Time.
'K-Fashion Archive: 0 to 100' is an interview project bridging the lineage between first-generation masters (100) who laid the foundation of Korean fashion and the vibrant emerging talents (0) capturing global attention today. Through the lens of a stylist who feels the pulse of fabric on the field, this project aims to record the true essence of Korean fashion and the humanistic narratives of its designers. We now open the first chapter of this grand journey.
 |
The Living Myth of Korean Fashion History, A Master of "Firsts"
장광효(Kwang Hyo Chang) is a name that cannot be omitted from the history of Korean fashion. Since founding his brand 'CARUSO' in 1987, he became the first Korean male designer to enter the Paris Prêt-à-Porter, pioneering the globalization of K-fashion. Guided by the philosophy that "there are no taboos in menswear," he was a revolutionary who practiced genderless aesthetics decades ahead of his time, introducing bold pink colors, rills, and intricate embroidery to 1980s Korean society. His unwavering presence on the runway for over 40 years has set the standard for Korean menswear, serving as a monumental milestone for countless Korean designers active on the global stage today.
 |
| CARUSO 2026 A/W |
For the past 15 years, fashion has always been at the very center of my life. As a stylist, I have completely immersed myself in the joy of rapid changes and the beautiful cycles of trends. Yet, standing before the immense presence of Kwang Hyo Chang, I was struck by a profound sense of awe beyond words. From the moment I first stepped into the world of fashion until now, he has been an unwavering lighthouse, standing firm in his place. Our conversation was more than just an interview; it was a sacred moment—a chance to find solace for my 15-year journey and the courage to take my next step.
 |
| 📸@caruso_park |
You chose fashion despite much opposition. Was there a decisive moment when you were certain you would spend your life making clothes?
Looking back, it might seem like I had certainty, but that wasn’t the case at the time. Whether it was destiny or not, I just kept doing it, and it became mine. Because I did it well, I received recognition, which made me work harder, eventually reaching a point of no return. I didn’t have a grand certainty from the start. Back then, there were few fashion graduates in Korea, so I had fears. But I lived as I wanted, and here I am. I want to tell young people: you must throw the dice well. You must do what you want to live a life without regrets.
 |
| In 1987, at the age of 32, Jang Kwang-hyo launched his brand 'CARUSO' in Apgujeong. Creating garments day and night amidst the energy of the Seoul Olympics, he remembers those grueling times as the most joyful moments of his life. 📸@caruso_park |
Was fashion a form of ‘healing’ for you, a way to soothe the wounds received from the world?
I think ‘a challenge towards the new’ is more fitting than ‘healing.’ When it was rare for men to study clothing, I wanted to be the one creating the field rather than following a path others had paved. Leaving the Military Academy for this path was likely due to my aversion to authority. Doing what I love makes designing all day fun. Without reward, there’s no joy, but I’ve been recognized and made money, so it’s truly enjoyable. Doing things my way—that is my method.
 |
| The signature piece of the 2021 ‘Pensive Bodhisattva’ collection at the National Museum of Korea. This garment translates the “smile of enlightenment” into Korean quilting, hand embroidery, and natural dyes. It reflects the elegance of Orientalism and the “smile of passion” from a master who has walked a single path for 40 years. 📸@caruso_park |
When you return to the silence of your studio after a grand show, what kind of peace do you find?
I don’t carry a heavy sense of loneliness. However, once a show is over, I find my energy completely spent—I am utterly exhausted. It’s like a shaman who has just finished a grueling ritual.
Yet, in that state of total exhaustion, my spirit (靈) alone awakens, crystal clear. That is the moment when the answers for the next show reveal themselves to me.
I don’t go out for drinks or head to clubs after a show. Instead, I quietly return home, tidy up the day, and have a meal. Before I go to sleep, I reflect on the show—weighing what was lacking and what went well—and I organize my thoughts on how to make the next one even better.
 |
| CARUSO Headquarters, Cheongdam-dong |
Does Kwang Hyo Chang still have a ‘final adventure’ or a ‘new challenge’ he dreams of?
Rather than a challenge, I am at an age to wrap things up well. I want to spend the next 10 years finishing well. I don’t know if I’ll keep doing collections past 80, but if I stop, I want to build a ‘Fashion Museum’ with the clothes I’ve made and donate it to the nation. Just as there is a fashion museum in Berlin, I hope there will be a space in Korea where my personal archive can help juniors. I don’t want to just disappear; I want to leave something behind.
 |
| CARUSO’s first advertisement visual, featured in the 2nd issue of 안 그라픽스(Ahn Graphics) '보고서 보고서(Bogoseo Bogoseo)' in 1988. This piece of heritage marks a pivotal moment in the history of Korean menswear, featuring model Do-il Ahn. (Image courtesy of @miyuk_apiece) |
You dressed men in pink and frills in the 80s. Was that a ‘quiet rebellion’ against prejudice?
It was an aesthetic question rather than a rebellion. ‘Must men only wear dark colors?’ Perhaps because I majored in visual design, I had no prejudice against color. Just as a chair can be made of glass (pointing to a glass chair in the showroom), clothes can break common sense. It wasn’t about telling men to be like women; it was a shift in perspective—wouldn’t it be fun to wear something new? I wanted to try something outside the box.
 |
| Glass Ghost Chair by Cini Boeri for Fiam Italy, CARUSO Headquarters, Cheongdam-dong |
Fashion changes, but what is the ‘true essence of menswear’ that never fades?
The essence of menswear is classicism and masculinity. Even if I make feminine clothes, they must be based on a solid frame of traditional tailoring. Changing things without understanding the basics is meaningless. I once stood dazed for 10 minutes in Germany watching a man get married in a tuxedo jacket and a skirt. Freedom blooming atop traditional tailoring—that is the essence I pursue.
 |
| Hong Seok-cheon wearing Kwang Hyo Chang (CARUSO) on the red carpet at the opening ceremony of the 28th Busan International Film Festival (BIFF). |
What was the most painful failure in your life, and how did it reshape you?
If I had made 100-point clothes for 40 years without failure, I wouldn’t be who I am today. When I watch show footage, there are always pieces I regret. But through those trials and errors, I feel the failures decreasing. Decreasing failure means I am becoming complete. Clothes are so precise that they reflect the maker’s mindset and philosophy. Ultimately, the process of completing a garment was the process of refining my own humanity.
 |
| CARUSO 2026 A/W |
You chose ‘Napoleon’ as your recent theme. What did you want to say to men today?
Napoleon was my mentor who gave the message that nothing is impossible. I wanted to awaken the spirit of challenge in young people today. I wanted to tell them: don’t just look at the world through your phones, see the real world and strive to be number one. I wanted to stir those who are complacent. Through fashion, I wanted to summon that heroic spirit once more to deliver a good message to the youth.
 |
| CARUSO 2026 AW |
What advice on ‘attitude’ would you give to young designers?
If you do it half-heartedly, it becomes ‘unfinished.’ You must agonize over a single garment for a month. When swimming across a rough sea, what saves you isn’t appearance or luck, but your ‘swimming skill’ and ‘endurance.’ Don’t just try to become a star and make money. You must have the energy to return to the essence of clothing, rain or shine. You can only reach your destination by building true skill.
 |
| CARUSO 2019 SS |
How do you want to be remembered as a ‘person,’ rather than a designer?
I don’t care much for being remembered as a ‘great man’ or a ‘star designer.’ I’ve learned that fame does not equate to happiness. I simply want to remain as a question mark (?). A lingering resonance that makes people wonder, ‘What kind of person was he, truly?’”
 |
| Kwang Hyo Chang featured in a special edition of Fsportshankook. (Director: Jung-min Seo, Editor: Min-young Kim, Photographer: Philip Park) |
Homage to the Eternal Youth, Kwang Hyo Chang
What is greater than the numerous records of “firsts” that define designer JANG KWANG HYO is his “purity” that has remained undried for 40 years. He says he is at a point of wrapping up his career, but the ending he speaks of is closer to completion than cessation. In the silhouette of this master who willingly buys meals for juniors and takes on mentoring, we see the most beautiful realm an artist can reach.
His promise to leave a legacy of Korean fashion pride in the form of a museum donated to the nation is like a lighthouse intended to keep his juniors from losing their way in the rough seas of fashion. The “question mark” he wishes to leave is ultimately a task for all of us. Expressing deep respect for the passion of a master who has graced an era, I have no doubt that the eternal runway he envisions will be remembered as the most noble legacy for the next generation.
 |
| CARUSO Headquarters, Cheongdam-dong |
Launching the [K-Fashion Archive: 0 to 100] Project
Starting with this profound encounter with Master Kwang Hyo Chang, I am embarking on a long-term archive project that bridges the past, present, and future of Korean fashion.
In my journey, I have often felt that deep, historical records of Korean designers were less accessible compared to the extensive literature on international designers. As both a devoted fan of fashion and a professional stylist, I felt a strong calling to contribute to our industry by documenting these invaluable stories through my own lens. I am also convinced that this journey will allow me to grow alongside the masters I interview.
Through this series, I aim to collect the ‘Untold Narratives’ that define the DNA of Korean fashion, spanning from first-generation masters to the emerging creators captivating the global stage. My goal is to move beyond mere success stories and capture the authentic narratives of growth and the human journeys of those who walk this path.
I hope these records, connecting Korea, Europe, and the world, will serve as a reliable map for future students of fashion and a profound guide for global K-Culture enthusiasts to discover the true depth of Korean fashion. This journey, rooted in the legacy of Jang Kwang-hyo, has only just begun. Stay tuned for the next chapter of Korean fashion.
* Full version: Read the original story and more untold narratives of K-fashion on my Substack: https://junghyunyoo.substack.com/p/kwang-hyo-chang-caruso-archive